RE: Generator exhaust fumes
RV roofs of course "better" be sealed way more thoroughly as compared to RV undercarriages - that's what the manufacturers of the Gen-Turi and other RV chimneys are counting on too.
Oh yes, the roof has, we hope, excellent seals for rain penetration. But I see no seals around the vents on RVs to prevent gas intrusion. And how many of us disassemble the AC unit to look for any problems there? I would think that gaps and cracks are at least as likely to occur there as elsewhere on the coach. The Genturi manufacturer isn't just counting on these things to be bullet proof he is betting your life that they are. Good bet? I think it is at least arguable that the MH manufacturer has put some thought and care into preventing gas intrusion in the area around the generator because that is where he expects trouble to occur. The roof area, why would he take any precautions to prevent CO intrusion there?
All I am saying is that transferring the problem from the floor to the roof is not the guarantee of saftey that so many seem to think it is. You still need to be aware of the potential for intrusion. If you wanted a guaranteed result you would have to pipe that gas 50 or 100 feet away and then you would still have to be concerned about the integrity of the pipe.
My roof vent is in the center near the front and the Onan exhaust is way low about midway back, so the air up in the middle of the roof BETTER NOT be full of Onan exhaust fumes - unless you're camped in the bottom of a steep-walled and narrow ravine on a windless day so that the generator's exhaust is trapped everywhere all around your rig.
You don't need to imagine anything so extreme. I ran our genny a little today and the exhaust gas was easy to track because it was cold enough condense into a cloud of steam. In a light breeze sitting in an open area of the flat Illinois prairie I could watch that little cloud of steam form a plume that gently drifted up and right over the coach.
However an additional (non-exhaust) reason to use the front roof vent, in it's "IN mode" to pressurize the rig, is to be able to also open the bathroom vent (but leave it's fan off) so we get some fresh air flow from the air being "pushed" throughout the rig - from the front roof vent and out the rear roof vent - as we air condition the RV with the Onan hour after hour in extreme heat when dry camping.
Around here that would be counterproductive. Extreme heat generally comes with extreme humidity here and sucking humid air into the coach while running the A/C would defeat the purpose. We get enough air exchange from going in and out of the door. But it is not my purpose to criticize the way you like to run your A/C and your detective work on negative pressure was excellent. People should bear in mind that the wind flow around a coach with an open downwind window can also create negative pressure and suck fumes transported to the roof area by a Genturi in through the gaps around roof vents.
I'm not worried about you, btw, you seem more safety conscious than most of us. It is just this notion that a Genturi is a foolproof guarantee of exhaust gas safety that I think needs to be reconsidered. Moving the gas from one part of the coach to another is no guarantee of safety and leaving it where it was works perfectly well in many cases.
Ken
RE: Not too ‘smooth' a shift from 1st to 2nd w/ Chevy 6.0
Well, we took our little trip today instead of tomorrow. By really paying close attention to the shifts I could maybe convince myself that 1-2 was a little rougher than the rest. This was with the transmission hot or cold and it was about 35F today when I started it. Mostly I would say that the shifts are so smooth that it is hard to even notice them.
Ken
RE: how important is it to have fuel full during winter storage?
"As you burn fuel out of the tank they freely let moisture laden air into the tank to replace the volume of fuel that has been withdraw."
OK, but the question is about winter storage.
Water remover doesn't actually eliminate the water. It is a co-solvent that disperses water evenly throughout the fuel.
Now can someone explain what a SEALED fuel system is? Cause we all have em!
Here is the complete story of how water condenses in your fuel tank, which you apparently need spelled out for you.
You drive your MH on the last warm day of the season when the temperature hits 80F and the humidity is 95%. You run the tank down to 1/4 full and you park it until next spring. If you aren't worried about moisture condensation you probably don't bother with fuel stabilizer or with running your generator monthly so the quarter tank of gas is of no concern to you.
While you were driving your 50 gallon tank down to 12.5 gallons roughly 37.5 gallons of warm, moist air were drawn into your "sealed" tank.
Well, now that she's parked the tank is effectively sealed by the check valve in the gas gap or elsewhere in the system so moisture cannot enter the tank. It is not necessary for any new moisture to enter the tank however, because there are already 37.5 gallons of moist air inside your tank!
Now it is early December and the temperature has dropped to 35F. The air in your fuel tank can hold far less moisture at 35F than at 80F and so the excess condenses out and being heavier than gasoline it sinks to the bottom of the tank which is generally right where the fuel pickup is. If you now need to start that engine you are going to have some trouble until you pump all the water through the system. If you give up before the engine starts and leave it that way all winter I suppose the water could cause some damage to your fuel system either by freezing or corrosion.
Let's say you don't do that though. You don't even try to start the engine until a few weeks later when an ice storm knocks out the power in your area. You might be without for a few days and you would like to use the MH as a lifeboat because the local hotels are all booked up with folks in the same situation. By now it is 20F and that little puddle of water around the fuel pickup is frozen solid. You aren't going to start that engine until it warms up.
Most likely your local fuel contains alcohol and that saves your bacon in the above scenerio. Or, if you bothered to use fuel stabilizer it may also protect you. But your fuel tank is not sealed, moisture can condense in it, and a full tank will prevent this. A full tank will also look mighty good when that ice storm hits too....
Ken
RE: Not too ‘smooth' a shift from 1st to 2nd w/ Chevy 6.0
I was meaning to ask some fellow small C rig owners with the same Chevy engine how the first shift feels to them, cause I asked my wife if maybe we were mistaken about the feel of the 1st-2nd shift.
Ours is a 2008 MY chassis, bought new in February of this year with about 2k miles on it. I sure don't recall any hint of rough shifting. I think we may take a short trip in it tomorrow just to have the extra space and I will try to pay attention to the shifting. With all the family tracking in and out it is likely to be Friday before I get the chance to report back to you.
Ken
RE: Generator exhaust fumes
Only if you have the exhaust fan on the roof vent sucking the air in....
If exhaust gas can drift in through an open side window it can drift in through an open roof vent too, whether a fan is running or not. Gas diffuses, it does not need an active device to push it through an opening although an active device can make the process much quicker and more efficient. A gentle breeze can be that active device, btw, you don't need a fan. A stronger wind can carry the gas away before it creates a problem, depending on the direction.
Unseen gaps and cracks can occur in the roof area too. In fact the roof vents I've seen do not form a perfect seal at all. They are well designed to prevent rain from entering but they would not stop gas diffusion any better than these mysterious cracks that supposedly riddle the area around the exhaust pipe of our generator. The roof AC unit is another area with great potential for gas entry.
If a Genturi reduces generator noise then it is a worthwhile addition. I would not depend on it to eliminate exhaust gas entry because it merely transfers the problem from one part of the coach to another. You still have to use common sense to prevent problems and you have to realize that one solution may not work in all circumstances. Generally the suggestion to keep the exhaust at ground level, shut the side windows, and use a powered roof vent to create a positive pressure inside the coach is a good one. But on a day when the wind is gentle enough and from the right direction exhaust gas could be carried up over the coach where it can be drawn in by that powered roof vent. Any solution you propose is going to work some of the time and fail at others.
Having said that I can report that we have never had this issue with all vents and windows closed and the generator running. Of course we have only owned the very finest of coaches -- Gulfstream and Coachmen -- that probably don't have the tremendous gapping and cracking problems that those of you who own lesser vehicles have to deal with. The Genturi represents a "solution" to a problem that we have never had although I can see that it would be kinder to your neighbors to use one in a tightly packed parking lot when you are on a tailgating mission at a sporting event. I simply would not want to stay at a "campground" that was so tightly packed that I thought I needed one for the neighbor's sake.
Ken
RE: how important is it to have fuel full during winter storage?
“Having a full tank is not as important as it once was. Modern cars/ trucks have sealed fuel systems so there is no way for additional moisture to get in the tank. Older vehicles with vented gas tanks had more issues.” BULLS EYE!
That's no bulls eye, that's a clean miss. That bullet hit nowhere near the target. I put a locking gas cap on our MH this year and it came with instructions on how to test the vent!. Since a new gas cap is a clean gas cap and the test involves using your mouth to suck air through the cap I performed the test. Sorry, but this "sealed" fuel system will easily let air flow in from the outside. It will not let gas vapors or air flow from the inside to the outside, it is a check valve. The fuel system is "sealed" in one direction only to prevent unburned hydrocarbons from diffusing out of the tank where they can contribute to local ozone levels when they interact with UV light. As you burn fuel out of the tank they freely let moisture laden air into the tank to replace the volume of fuel that has been withdrawn.
The real reason that moisture in the fuel tank is less of an issue these days is that most gasoline now contains some alcohol. Water and alcohol have an affinity for each other and the alcohol prevents the water from creating problems as long as there is not too much of it. Keeping a full tank of gas in the MH for emergency use is an excellent idea though.
Ken
RE: Generator exhaust fumes
Only thing with the Pep Boys extension is that yes you are getting the exhaust away from the RV but it still has a chance to blow back right in your windows or your neighbirs window should you be parked close to one another...the Genturi takes the exhaust fumes up and above the roof of your RV
... where they can be sucked into a roof vent. If you are running the generator you are going to have to keep the nearest (at least) windows or vents closed to guarantee that the exhaust gasses cannot enter the coach.
Ken
RE: how important is it to have fuel full during winter storage?
In a "sealed fuel system" what breaks the vacuum that would be created in the gas tank as the fuel is pulled out? I bet it is atmospheric air, with the related humidity. No fuel system is immune to condensation.
You are right, every vehicle I've ever owned will draw air into the tank as fuel is removed. There is at most a mild partial vacuum in the tank when you crack the fuel cap open. These days they have a check valve in the cap to allow air in but to prevent fuel vapor from diffusing out. The tanks are not freely vented as they were in days of yore but they are one way vented to allow air in.
Ken
RE: Coachman sold to Forest River
I would be VERY surprised if you ended up with no warranty.
Anything could happen but I don't expect to lose warranty coverage entirely. You would expect that Coachmen or Forest River would have to honor any remaining warranties. It is odd that there were no reassurances about this in the press statement, or was there one that I missed? In reality a great deal of any MH is covered by third party warranties anyway. The real issue is that the Coachmen part is specific to the Coachmen factory process and staff. If those are not maintained relatively intact then Forest River might not be able to address problems correctly no matter how hard they try. So we have to hope more than we normally would that the "house" is engineered correctly and won't need any work.
Either the biggest or next biggest component of a MH is the van chassis it is built on and that is covered by the OEM warranty. In our case it is a Chevy chassis and at least GM is ... OOOH NOOOOooooooooo........
Ken ;)
RE: Chevy van chassis specs -- help!
My next step is probably to get a local mobile RV service person there to do a thorough pre-purchase inspection, and ask my local Chevy dealer to run the VIN and look for recalls.
Given the VIN you would think the Chevy dealer could also confirm that it is a 3500. I'd give you our thoughts on the Chevy chassis but ours is a 2008 MY Workhorse edition and most of what I would say would not apply to the one you are looking at, or at least I could not know for sure that it would. Overall our impression is positive, just as it was with our previous MH on the E350 chassis. If the older chassis is comparable to the Workhorse I think it should do fine on a MH of that size. The new Workhorse models will go much larger too but that's no concern of yours!
Ken
RE: Coachman sold to Forest River
So, does that mean our new 2009 Coachmen is an orphan? A collector's item? A vehicle without a warranty?
Oh well, more and more stuff like this is going to happen in this economy. I'm not going to worry about it.
Ken
RE: RVIA MH Categories
I have a good hunch that there really is some insight to be gained about RVing in discussing the switch to use of the term 'Types.'
I think not. The web page is designed for consumers, not RVIA members, and the word type is just friendlier than class which sounds like a government definition with all the baggage that carries.
Unless we see the return of models built from the ground up by OEMs, unlikely in today's economy, the three class system will describe very well the offerings on the new market. Class A is built on a bare chassis, class B is built inside a complete vehicle, class C is built on the partial vehicles that OEMs offer for specialty applications. Terms like Super C and B+ are not fundamental definitions, they convey nuances and are really unnecessary. Super C is slightly more useful in my opinion in that those MHs are built on a different class of partial vehicle than traditional class Cs even though the underlying concept is the same. Even then it it pretty obvious to the consumer, even a newbie, that a medium truck chassis is different from a van chassis so there is no strong reason to complicate the system by giving them a special name. The B+ term is a very fuzzy one and it totally fails to capture the range of options available in small class Cs. I think it is basically useless and ought to be dropped from our vocabulary.
A classification system works best when it is kept as simple as possible. This classification system is intended to help consumers understand the basic choices they will have to make when purchasing a MH and so there is even more reason to keep it simple. The class system in no way constrains what RV manufacturers make nor does it telegraph their intentions for the future as you seem to be saying. It is just a marketing tool. The RVIA itself does not govern its members or plan their activities. It is an association for the purpose of promoting the common good of the RV manufacturers, not you and I. To the extent that what is good for us is good for them, it can be our friend too.
Ken
RE: Advice on Coachmen Freelander please
We did find the 3 valves under the stove compartment, all turned in the same direction, but do not understand how to drain. Is there a plug we have to release before turning the valves? Where does it drain? Do I understand you to say that once the draining is complete we can begin the antifreeze process? Do these 3 valves drain the water lines and the water heater? I apologize for so many questions, but I am at a loss for any assistance and, of course, you cannot contact Coachmen on the weekend. Thanks.
I guess I am no better than Coachmen and have only a few details beyond what BikerRon told you. On our 2130QB the valve closest to the outside wall drains the fresh water tank. All you have to do is turn that valve and the tank should drain. To drain the water lines you should open the hot and cold faucet valves in the kitchen and bathroom as well as the other two drain valves so that air can enter the lines through the faucets as the water drains out. If you have a separate shower open that too and once the process is well under way operate the toilet valve for half a minute so that line drains also.
There is a hot water heater access panel on the outside of the coach. There is a little catch that you turn 90 deg so that it will slide through a slot in the panel and then the panel will hinge down. If you have an Atwood heater there will be a large, white plastic drain plug. I think it takes a 15/16 in socket or wrench. The WH might eventually drain through the low point drains but it will be much, much, much faster if you remove that drain plug on the outside of the WH. In fact you MUST do it that way to make sure the heater drains properly. The Atwood plug has no anode because the Atwood heaters have aluminum tanks. If you have a Suburban heater the plugs are larger (1 1/8 inch I think), steel, and have an anode rod attached on the inside to protect the steel tanks that Suburban heaters use. In either case once the tank is drained replace the plug and close the outside access panel.
There is one more thing you need to do to the heater after all the water is drained from the water lines and the heater tank. You need to turn the bypass valves to the winter position. On the 2130QB these valves are behind a screwed on panel just below the left hand wardrobe door on the inside of the coach. The four screws that hold it in place are easily seen when you look for them but easy to miss when you aren't. On our unit there are two valves, turn them both 90 degrees from where they are now and you should be set. Some MH's would have three valves but evidently this model has a check valve on the output of the WH instead of a third manually operated valves. Our previous BT Cruiser had a single valve so there are a range of possibilities here.
None of these valves are marked to indicate what they are or which position is summer and which is winter. So I marked them all with a permanent marker. Your bypass valves are currently in the summer position so mark where they are now summer. When you turn them mark that position winter.
On the 2130QB there is a fresh water "water works" panel behind a locked door on the rear of the coach. It has the city water hookup that you use to connect a hose to either use city water or fill the fresh water tank. It also has two valves and a port where you can connect the short hose that you should have gotten with the unit to drop into fresh water antifreeze jugs. You should already be familiar with using the valves and the city water connection to fill the tanks and get a city water connection at campgrounds. Once you have the water drained from the system and the water heater bypassed all you need to do is turn the "water works" valves to the winterize position and hook up the antifreeze hose to the port on the water works panel. Drop that hose into a jug of antifreeze and with the internal faucets off turn on the water pump. It will now charge the water lines with anitfreeze. Now you can turn on the internal faucets one by one and run them until any remaining water and air runs out and the discharge runs a steady pink color. Don't forget to do the toilet too and be sure to dump some AF down the shower trap. The 2130QB shower runs off the bathroom faucet so there is no need to treat it separately but if you have a separate shower you should run the hot and cold valves on the shower until they run steady pink too and that will fill the shower trap at the same time.
Be sure that someone monitors the level of the AF jug so that you can change to a new jug before the pump runs dry. Our 2130QB took a little less than 2 gallons to do all that. I dumped the remainder down the toilet and a little extra in each trap in the sinks and shower just for good measure.
The 2130QB is set up to make this quite easy to do. It almost takes less effort to do the job than to type this description!
Ken
RE: Advice on 21' or 22' class c
Right on Gene, that is it.
I was very impressed by the availability of corner bed in small length. There was a lot going on in the central living area though, especially since jbobst is talking a small family.
You are both right, that is the unit. We've only had it since February and have barely used it enough to say this but I think it will work out very well for us. We don't have children, just four medium sized dogs. One the one hand the dogs might not be quite as much of a crowd as two teenagers would be, on the other hand they don't spend all (any actually) their time in the overhead bunk the way two pre-teens would. If small family implies young children then the unit should be big enough. As the children grow the family will have time to accomodate to the increasing size of the kids, or to buy a bigger MH! The floorplan is surprisingly roomy even without a slide. The Fourwinds model that the OP mentioned is very similar and also has a cavernous cargo hold.
Ken
RE: Advice on 21' or 22' class c
I think you will find a bit more leg room in the chevy chassis, but I've heard some think it tends to be a bit underpowered, also has a lower GVWR, 14500 for the Ford and 12300 for the chevy.
The newest Chevys have about 20 HP more than the Fords. Our Coachmen has about the best power to weight ratio out there among MHs but it would be nearly the same if it were a Ford. The newest Chevy chassis can go over 14k pounds GVWR but it is still a bit less than the Ford. Our Coachmen is built on the 12,300 pound chassis but since it is only a 23 footer the CCC is over 2k pounds and we weighed ours on one trip and had something like 1k pounds to go even though we had everything we would ever want on board.
Ken
RE: Advice on 21' or 22' class c
Of those two the Winnebago is probably a little nicer but the Coachmen Freelander and Gulfstream Conquest class Cs are of similar quality to the Four Winds. Some of the other makes have abandoned their small Cs for the bigger models and you have to wonder if they aren't going to reverse that decision now. You may only save a little on fuel costs by going small but new customers won't know or believe that. I don't know if any of these have the floor plan you want. You can also look at the Gulfstream BT Cruisers; even though they have been dropping their small units they may still offer the 21 footer.
We didn't downsize, we are on our second unit in this size range because we like the size. We have a Coachmen Freelander 2130QB (we got the Camping World version) and we love it. The huge external storage area is just what we needed. These guys are easier to drive in tight areas and they are big enough inside for our needs.
I think you tend to see the Chevy chassis in the small units because until recently they did not have the weight rating to build a big MH on. So they carved out the small C niche for themselves and I think it is a matter of consumer habits dying hard. People tend to go Chevy for small units and Ford for larger units even though it don't have to be that way anymore. Our previous 23 foot BTC was a Ford, the Freelander is a Chevy. The Chevy is a little nicer for access to the coach from the cab, the difference is primarily for the passenger, driver access is decent on both. I think the Chevy drives a little nicer. Not much difference really, I would not let the chassis make deter me from buying a unit. Both are quite good for the application.
I think the Sprinters are more expensive for two reasons. The chassis probably costs a little more. A visit to the Dodge, Ford, and Chevy websites where you can build a van and get a price should tell you if I am right about that and what the difference is. More than that I think the MH makers are using the Sprinter's unique qualities to justify building a more upscale, higher profit margin MH. I suspect that they could just as easily build Sprinter models for whatever price difference there is in the van chassis pricing if they wanted to. If current economic conditions persist you might see them starting to do just that to try to attract customers with higher mpg ratings.
Ken
RE: 2005 Coachmen Freelander
Our Freelander is new this year, a 2009, so this might not help but the drain valves are all on the floor under the stove. There is a cabinet drawer under the stove, you pull that out to get to the valves.
Ken
RE: your opinions on fuel stablizers for winter storage
I do know a bit about humidity, due point Etc
It's DEW point, but I'm no expert. However, this guy seems to know his stuff:
condensation myth
Yes it is dew point, not due, point but they are pronounced the same so it is a natural error to make. Your web reference does not "know his stuff". Not completely anyway. Tanks may not be freely vented to the air anymore but they do draw air in as you empty them. You have a partial vacuum in the tank, not a complete vacuum. So if you were to start with a full tank on a humid day, drive until nearly empty, and then store for the winter you would start with a tank full of humid air. If the dew point of the air in the tank is 60F and the ambient temperature drops to 35F then the water vapor in the tank is going to condense out of the air inside the tank until the dew point of the remaining air is 35F. That is what the dew point is, the temperature at which the air can no longer hold the amount of water vapor mixed with it.
How much water? Your reference does not understand what makes water vapor condense so it is questionable whether he can calculate the amount of water available correctly but I will assume that he has and that you can get about 0.8 oz of water from a 200 gallon tank. So with a typical 50 gallon tank you might get 0.2 oz. If your gasoline contains ethanol that will probably not be a problem. If is does not then the 0.2 oz water will settle to the low point of the tank, which is right where the fuel pickup is.
Still 0.2 oz of water is not much so your engine will suck it right up and spit it right out and you might have to crank a tiny bit longer to get your engine started. No big deal. Now let the temperature drop to 25F before you try to start it. That 0.2 oz of frozen water might just be plenty to block your fuel pickup. Now you are not going anywhere until you thaw out that water!
Fuel condensation is not a myth. The prevalence of gasohol has probably made it a non issue for most folks most of the time. Keeping a full tank in the winter for a vehicle you drive daily probably never was an issue because winter air is dryer and you have a really hard time getting enough water vapor in there in the winter to cause trouble. Likewise most of us will not go into winter with a tank still full of August air that started at 90F and 95% humidity and that limits the amount of moisture in the tank.
Ken
RE: Which Chevy chassis do I have?
If I try to drive it on an interstate highway at the legal speed limit and get passed by an 18-wheeler I find myself blown into another lane!
And WHICH lane would that be? If you are driving in the curb lane of a 2x2 lane Interstate and an 18-wheeler passes you on the left... What "lane" is it that you are blown into ?
Might your description be a little bit of "literary license" (aka. gross exaggeration)?
I drive a Four Winds 5000 22' Chevy 1-ton chassis Class C (@ 60 MPH) and while I'll admit that the "bow wave" airflow of a passing semi can cause my RV to be rocked or even moved slightly to the curb
While I agree with you somewhat I would note two things. Not every freeway is only four lanes so is it is possible to be passed by a semi on either side and literally be blown into another lane. You drive a Chevy chassis as do I but in both cases we are shorter than he is. Mine is a 2009 23 foot Coachmen Freelander so in my case I possibly have a different suspension too. Chances are there was some hyperbole involved, we expect that as part of a good rant.
Certainly in my experience this chassis has very good road manners. I would rate our stock Chevy unit as highly as our previous Ford based BT Cruiser with upgraded shocks. We just got back from a 500 mile or so trip yesterday and several times I was surprised by the impulse from the bow wave of a semi that came up behind me when I wasn't watching for it. Given that I was driving a bit under the speed limit and the semis were typically 5-10 over the limit the relative speed between us and them was fairly high. Even so I was not moved sideways, just felt the nudge. Crosswinds were not a problem but I dont' think I faced any serious crosswinds on this trip. One thing I noticed was that the body jiggled a bit from wake turbulence every time a big semi pulled over into the lane in front of me. Again it was not an issue, just something I felt.
But we have to be fair here, a 28 footer doesn't necessarily perform the same as a 22/23 footer and in my case I have a newer suspension but again I don't know if there were any changes to the suspension this year.
Ken
RE: Sprinter Chassis Doesn't Add Up
"The turbocharger means you always have all of your power available. At 7000 feet, a non-turbo loses half of its power. "
I'll remember that the next time I climb Pike's Peak.
bumpy :p
The parking lot on Mt. Evans is at 14,130 ft elevation (Pike's Peak is only 14,110 ft). So I guess shortly before you get to the parking lot on Mt. Evans that non-turbo engine will have zero power.
Yeah the usual number is 3-4% loss per thousand feet. So you would expect to have at least 44% of your sea level power at 14k feet in a gas engine. That would leave you at least 132 HP. If the power loss is only 3%/kft then you would have more power than a View but even at 4% the difference won't be large. And that assumes that the View does't lose any HP which may or may not be true. Obviously even a turbocharged engine must drop to zero power at some altitude. We don't know what the View engine's specs are but it seems likely to me that it would hold its power rating up to some lower altitude like 8k or 10k feet and then drop off above that. Unless you are designing an airplane engine there is little need to spend the money to make it work the same from sea level to 14k feet.
Compared to other class Cs the View is "underpowered". That is why those of us who own the other Cs spend so much time complaining about their fuel economy! In MH magazines acceleration testing (with no toad) the View's 0-60 times were more like a class A's than a class C's. If you are hoping to drag race against a Lotus perhaps the View is not for you. If you are hoping to drag race against my 11k pound, 323 HP Coachmen Freelander perhaps the View is not for you. However you might find that because of the roar of all that money flowing through the fuel line that I don't pull away from the light any faster than you do and you will pull ahead of me as I stop three times for fuel for every two of your fuel stops.
Ken
